Guide for candle makers
Why your essential oil candle won’t throw, and which oils hold up in wax
Short answer: essential oils throw more softly than candle fragrance oils. Start with oils that hold up in wax, anchor them with a base note, use the load your wax allows, and let the candle cure before you judge it. Most weak throws come from one of the seven things below.
Why essential oils throw more softly
Many essential oils are made of light molecules that evaporate quickly, and some break down with heat. Makers often report a good cold throw but a weak hot throw, and plenty switch to fragrance oils made for candles, or mix the two [1, 2]. It isn’t a failure on your part: it’s the material.
The cold throw (unlit) tends to come from lighter top notes. The hot throw leans on heavier notes such as woods, resins and vanilla [3].
Seven things to check
- The oils you chose. Some essential oils hold up in wax far better than others. See the table below.
- The balance of the blend. A blend of only citrus and florals fades fast. As a starting point, try about 30% top, 50% heart and 20% base, with a base note such as cedarwood, vetiver or patchouli to anchor it.
- The fragrance load. Load is a percentage of the wax weight, often 6–10%. Never go above your wax supplier’s maximum, or the limit for candles (IFRA Category 12) on your oil’s certificate.
- The temperature you add it. Follow your wax supplier. One supplier suggests heating to about 85°C and adding fragrance at about 80°C; too hot can weaken the scent [3]. For essential oils, some makers add them slightly cooler and stir for at least two minutes [1].
- The mix. Stir slowly and fully, so the oil spreads evenly through the wax [3].
- The wick and melt pool. A wick that’s too small won’t melt the wax to the edge, and a small melt pool releases less scent. Test wicks until the melt pool reaches the sides [3].
- The cure. Give the wax time before you test: about 1–2 weeks for soy, around 2 weeks for coconut and 3–5 days for paraffin [3].
Which essential oils hold up in wax
| In wax | Oils |
|---|---|
| Throws well | Bergamot, lime, lemongrass, cardamom, lavender, geranium, ylang-ylang, cinnamon leaf, clove bud, cedarwood, vetiver, patchouli, tonka bean |
| Fine, with a base note | Sweet orange, lemon, grapefruit, mandarin, peppermint, eucalyptus, rosemary, clary sage, black pepper, ginger, cypress, frankincense, sandalwood, vanilla |
| Weak or costly in wax | Roman chamomile, neroli, rose, jasmine: better in perfume or diffusers |
These ratings are general guidance from perfumery practice, used in the Blend Studio library. They aren’t a test of your oil: batches and suppliers vary, so always test. Cinnamon leaf and clove bud need low use levels, so check their IFRA limits.
How to test fairly
- Change one thing at a time, in small test batches.
- Wait for the cure before you judge it.
- Smell it unlit, then after an hour lit, in a closed room.
- Ask someone who doesn’t know the blend. Personal taste shapes how a scent comes across.
- Write it all down: oil, batch, load, temperature, wick and result. The Blend Studio has a nose log for this.
Selling natural candles
- Describe the scent, not an effect: “warm cedar and orange”, not “calming” or “helps you sleep”. UK advertising rules don’t accept health claims for candles.
- Check your label. Your candle may need a CLP hazard label, worked out from your supplier’s safety data sheet, plus fire-safety warnings (BS EN 15494).
Find the oils that hold up in wax
The free Blend Studio rates every oil for candles, works out exact grams for your jars, and checks your wording against UK advertising rules.
Sources
- Makesy, Pros and cons of essential oils for candle making: https://makesy.com/blogs/news/pros-cons-of-essential-oils-for-candle-making
- Soap Making Forum, Essential oils in candle making (makers’ discussion): https://soapmakingforum.com/threads/essential-oils-in-candle-making.79303/post-843691
- AFI, Why your candle scent isn’t strong enough: https://www.afi-usa.com/blog/why-your-candle-scent-isnt-strong-enough/